My cyclone project

[edtbjon]

Hello Björn,
thank you for the link and information.
For me it seems that some puzzle parts are going together.

If a 60 cfm radial fan is much stronger in the system, than a 230 cfm axial fan, than this is due to more pressure / force.
For the flat axial fan I expect a high air flow with not so much pressure.

If just the difference between perforated drum and solid drum causes drop of air flow with the original fan by a factor of 2,
then the resitence of the whole system (bowl, funnel, J-pipe, front-plate-elbow, drum, 2,5" exhaust ) can probably drop the air flow by a factor of 10. (20 cfm instead of 230).
The radial fan is probably more robust on this. (I still have to read the HB thread.)

I may (just for the fun of it) try to connect a centrifugal fan to a "standard" setup of the exhaust system, just to see how it compares to the standard fan. I have the standard exhaust system in a box nearby the roaster, so it's a matter of setting up some kind of adapter for the small centrifugal fan.
For the record, I don't think that the solid drum introduces much more drag than the perforated drum. I've used both without any big difference in how the exhaust system worked. (OK, I didn't use an anemometer to measure it, but I setup my usual three settings with the cig.lighter trick as described by MillCityRoastes et.al. These settings were very similar on my Variac for both type of drums.

[beananimal]

Acc. to my memory I had much more air flow with the perforated drum J-pipe, than now with solid drum T-pipe. But sometimes I am fooling myself.   

If the 60cfm fan is too powerful, you can make a bypass hole in the connecting hose, or intentional leakage. Our hover has such a opening in the handle for gentle cleaning

[edtbjon]

Acc. to my memory I had much more air flow with the perforated drum J-pipe, than now with solid drum T-pipe. But sometimes I am fooling myself.   

If the 60cfm fan is too powerful, you can make a bypass hole in the connecting hose, or intentional leakage. Our hover has such a opening in the handle for gentle cleaning

Yes, I know... I call it the "LET GO!!! (of that sock)" button/opening.

Now, I didn't really bother about learning too much about what the other 2 cords (yellow and brown) on my fan is intended for, but I just found out they are "PWM" cords. That open up a whole new world of opportunities... A standalone PWM controller, or should I make the fan controllable from Artisan? It seems like I have some forum browsing and studies ahead of me.

[Brewzologist]

Now, I didn't really bother about learning too much about what the other 2 cords (yellow and brown) on my fan is intended for, but I just found out they are "PWM" cords. That open up a whole new world of opportunities... A standalone PWM controller, or should I make the fan controllable from Artisan? It seems like I have some forum browsing and studies ahead of me.

Exactly what I am doing but with an axial ran.  While you can use a DC voltage controller with a PWM fan, you should get much better control using the PWM lines.  Here are links related to PWM fan control via Artisan.  I modified the Python scripts to run on Windows, so PM me if you're not a Mac/Linux user.  I pretty much otherwise used Agrajag's (Phil's) approach below:

https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php/topic,408.0.html
https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php/topic,1080.msg11570.html#msg11570

Steve

[beananimal]

 
I am currently waiting for feedback from MLG as I ordered via email a Zero Cross Detector to do exactly this PWM controling with my TC4.

[edtbjon]

Acc. to my memory I had much more air flow with the perforated drum J-pipe, than now with solid drum T-pipe. But sometimes I am fooling myself.   

If the 60cfm fan is too powerful, you can make a bypass hole in the connecting hose, or intentional leakage. Our hover has such a opening in the handle for gentle cleaning

While re-reading this thread, I just found this one...
It's mentioned on other places, but the J exhaust system have much fewer leaks than the T system. The top charge damper does leak quite a lot, which is why I suggested a top lid of sorts (I simply took a piece of alu.foil and put it on top. It can be as easy as taking something which can stand the heat).