Hank I want to know more about the Anemometer please

[hankua]

I'll have to go back and look at the 1036, but the damper pin holes migh be a location for a sensor. My question, is it going to work without a pitot tube or not. The air pressure sensors are heat sensitive and would get gummed up going positive; negative pressure solves both althought a filter can be used as well.

Probably need to fix a temporary location, a short extension pipe using aluminum foil and wire or a piece of roof flashing taped or glued into a cylinder. A pitot tube can be made with a small automotive tubing bender and compression fittings to fit the pipe.

[SusanJoM]

So this project has been resurrected.  I'm still not sure where I'm gonna put the sensor for the 1136, but I'm inclined to put it into the exhaust, primarily because I have a spare....so if it all goes south I haven't put a hole into a piece I can't replace.

[SusanJoM]

Well the hardware part of this is gonna take me some more futzing, but at least Artisan is ready:

[SusanJoM]

I'll have to go back and look at the 1036, but the damper pin holes migh be a location for a sensor.

So how would you go about getting the damper pins out?

Could I cut the outside part of the pin with bolt cutters?  Probably too hard, right???

[hankua]

My damper is a bit dirty, it looks to be tack welded inside. The way I'd approach it would be to take the J pipe to a welding shop/machine shop and have them remove the assembly and the damper boss. Then weld in a threaded insert to fit the sensor/pitot tube and fill in the opposing hole.

That would also improve the air flow, removing the damper restriction. Assuming one does not ever use the damper.

[SusanJoM]

Excellent plan....Thanks Hankua ! ! !

The only time I use the damper these days is to facilitate the coughing up/out of beans post drop.  I think I can do without that function just fine;  there are other ways to do that....

[SusanJoM]

All righty then.  This rig is ready for the welding shop.  I will go there tomorrow and see if I can get this put together....

[beananimal]

One question: the USB plug is part of the 1036?
Or something additional ?

Comment: Removing the damper has double benefit, as any turbulences should be minimized nearby pressure measurement.

[SusanJoM]

The USB in the picture is the 1011

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1011

[beananimal]

Thanks.
A hint if you need: you can easily bend a thin pipe if you use a saddle, stepwise.
A 12" pot, a 8" pot, 4", 2", if you need.
With an insert, e.g. a rod, you are on the save side.

[beananimal]

Hello Susan,
What are you going to do with the second line of the 1036?
Just leave it open to environment?
(Sorry, if I missed it somewhere)
Peter

[SusanJoM]

I think just open.  But I haven't yet tried the whole contraption, so I can't be sure. 

[beananimal]

I don't know about experience with this on roasters.
I am afraid that with a full Huky it will show more underpessure (while less airflow)
and with chaff on the fan it may show overpressure. Second case is worse, as it not predictable.
But you will now soon.

[SusanJoM]

Marko Luther has posted both on Facebook and at H-B that he used this set-up successfully, so I am hopeful.   I have never had a very good idea of how the fan/air was actually working;  it would be instructive to see.  Also I will be able to use it on both the solid and the perforated drum HUKYs to see if/as/how they differ.

Anyway....tinkering is so much fun 

[SusanJoM]

So my exhaust tube came home from the welding shop this morning.