Removable heat shield, my modified Huky.

[mosen]

deleted

[Contrabass Bry]

I'm extremely interested in seeing what you've done (since I use an open burner too), but unfortunately, the image links are not working.

[mosen]

...

[edtbjon]

I can see the pics...
Interesting... I understand what you are trying to accomplish, e.g. low air in the beginning, to keep the beans from "overdrying". But IMO you are really overdoing it. Going from (a rather) extreme conduction start with a very slow rotation and suddenly shifting motor speed and inserting that thick piece of steel plate with "all" convection does feel a bit over-enginered. I don't really have any opinion about changing motor speed, apart from my own experience with running the 72rpm motor with 18V at around 54rpm. That made the motor weaker, resulting in a couple of jams, as a few smaller beans occationally got stuck between the drum and the front and the whole thing just stopped turning (which never happened when running either (48 or 72) motor at full voltage.
Now, IMO, the big issue is pushing in a thick (shiny stainless) steel plate under the drum. Unless you preheat it to say 350-400F it's going to steal a lot of the heat from the roast. I.e. my guess is that it's going to drastically stall the roast. If you intend to redirect the heat to the back of the drum with the help of the fan, why not use a frame with some aluminium (european spelling... ) foil. It will heat in an instant and will still redirect the heat in the same way as a very heavy plate. ... Just my 2cents... 

[Contrabass Bry]

Sorry, my company blocks access to Google Drive shares.

The Huky forum can host the images via the "attachments". I take it your not near your home computer either?
In the spirit of equal access to all, please try to load them up via our site when you get a chance.

I truly am interested, but I just can't see anything at this point and wanted all others to be able to view and chime-in, as well.

[mosen]

...

[SusanJoM]

It looks to me as if maybe you used that piece of steel that came with the HUKY that sits under the stove for those of using the IR burner?

Nice pictures of an interesting mod.
These are the forays into experimentation that make the forum so interesting even for those of us who use the equipment as originally designed.

Thanks.

[Contrabass Bry]

Very cool! You've got more gumption than I to cut into the shell...

Were you being literal when you state that the flames actually reach to the bottom of the drum? I ask because I utilize the exact same burner and I'd have to run the thing wide open (15" WC on the gauge) to have the flames get that high. In that case, I'd be in full "immolation mode" and not particularly conducive to coffee roasting.

I'm looking for some manner of diverting the direct heat on the drum to more convection. I belive Chert utilized a perforated piece of metal and now your idea has me wanting to try something to approximate the slat grates on the perforated model. Wonder if Mr. Li sells a retrofit?

What are you using to control the gas going to the burner? I have a rather complex kludging of regulators, reducers, needle valves and gauges between the propane tank and the burner. I generally set my adjustable regulator (near the tank) near 1psi and then fine-tune it to max out at 15"wc with the needle valve wide open. This helps with repeatability.

[mosen]

...

[mosen]

I belive Chert utilized a perforated piece of metal and now your idea has me wanting to try something to approximate the slat grates on the perforated model. Wonder if Mr. Li sells a retrofit?

I once sent to Mr. Li this message:

what about using a solid shutter (or a shutter with little holes) with the solid drum, so to make a indirectly heated solid drum?

and he replied:

The modification you mentioned is actually a test version 3~4 years ago,
the effect of making shutter as a heat diffuser is limited since the thickness is not enough,
it is no longer producing for solid drum anymore.

[Contrabass Bry]

I see. Darn it. I like that you took matters into your own hands! Huzzah!

Oh, so you are using the valve on the burner, eh? Yeah, that'll make for quite the guessing game as to where your gas is set. If you want the list of parts, you could put something together like a few others and myself have done. I feel that might help take a variable out of the equation. Though many large scale roasters over the years have had wood fired roasters that could only be manipulated via airflow changes, but then again, they weren't just learning to roast either.

I admire your adventurous spirit. Might just be best to start logging roasts only by sensory input: color, smell and sound, as this can help you make heads/tails out of the electronic output.

We haven't been provided much in the way of what you like or dislike about your current roasts. How have things been tasting?

[mosen]

..

[mosen]

...

[Contrabass Bry]

Actually I still haven't got any good greens, almost all my experimentation was with some low quality beans I buy locally, those are drinkable at Gulf roast (160c - 180c), but when I roast them darker they have two problems, one they are prone to quick heat acceleration and charring, two they produce a bad smell and flavor (inherited in the beans not because of charring)

With Gulf roasts using the local beans the Huky is very challenging because it seems that those beans need gentler roasting or they will produce some kind of offensive taste (you can know how offensive it will taste just by looking at the roast, how much pale and dry it looks and how much dark coloring there is) my last Gulf roast with the new shield tastes good but far from exceptional maybe the beans themselves are not good.

Ah, I think I get it now. Sounds like the beans may be quite old and have no moisture left. What type of coffee do you normally enjoy if you purchase some that has been brewed for you.

My apologies for all the questions before offering a proper "Welcome"! Also, where are you located?

[mosen]

deleted