Seasoning the drum

[SusanJoM]

Just a matter of "taming the beast", and it's possible the solid drum is easier to control than the "direct fire" perforated version. Maybe a member can comment on how they differ, ie: which one is easier to use.

You could break out the tools and try switching out the drum? 

Nope.
I am close enough to getting the direct fire one under control.  I bought the solid drum in case I really couldn't, but that no longer seems likely.  I'm closing in on it.

If/as/when I get bored (LOL) I can change drums for fun, but I'm not doing it because I can't make the perforated one work.  I CAN !!!!  :-))))

[John F]

Anyone  know if seversimo in that HB thread is using a Huky or Quest ?

I see now how a roaster with a shiny drum can increase load size by seasoning it  by some amount due to darker colors transferring heat faster.

This will still only matter to me if the Huky with ir stove is under powered to roast the load size I want in a reasonable timeframe. I don't think this will happen but time will tell.

I'm not concerned with lower enervy consumption.

[Gregr]

How much do you want to roast? If it's one pound- stop worrying it's a total non-issue.

[John F]

How much do you want to roast? If it's one pound- stop worrying it's a total non-issue.

I'm thinking you are exactly right.

[edtbjon]

This thread is about perf. vs. solid drums. I did choose solid and didn't order a perf. on the side. I don't think that one is better than the other, I just picked one and I want to learn how to use it well. Having a different drum would have added a sense of doubt. Is the other one better suited and will it fix my inferior roasts? Short answer: No, learn how to roast. 
Now, I'm about to order the new exhaust (with the funnel on top) when it becomes available. I already have a working cyclone and have plans for a version 2.0 (or rather 0.2) of that system. I'll probably throw in a perf. drum in that order. Curiousity killed the cat...
Now, would I season a perf. drum. Yes I would, out of the very same reasons I've described before.

To round off the seasoning discussion, I didn't season the drum in order to save on gas. The key words are "responsiveness" and "capacity". The machine responds quicker when I change the gas setting and is still "responsive" (vs. "coping") with a full 500g load of greens. But most of my roasts are in the 300-400g range. I very much enjoy using this machine and running full loads would give me too much coffee. (Hmm, did I just write "Too much coffee" )

Just a quick note about the swedish "Gasol". That is the "standard" propane in Sweden. It doesn't differ much from pure propane, just some butane mixed in for cold weather. The difference would be max 10% from pure propane.

[John F]

This thread is about perf. vs. solid drums.


Now, would I season a perf. drum. Yes I would, out of the very same reasons I've described before.

To round off the seasoning discussion...

So you are saying the thread is about solid vs perf and seasoning pros/cons. 



I think the HB thread has me convinced that seasoning the drum will lead to less energy required to reach temps, faster heat absorbtion, and maybe lower met due to the previous items.

I'm still trying to understand how it can also reject heat faster. I've experienced darker colors absorbing more heat so it's easier to get but also rejecting it faster is a new one to me.

But overall I'm starting to see why this could be a viable mod. I'm not trying to source any flaxseed oil but at least I think some of you might not be as crazy as I first suspected. 

[edtbjon]

I consider myself just "normally crazy in an insane world".
You are probably correct about the drum also conserving heat when seasoned. Now, the inside of the drum is only seasoned with coffee oils over time and not too much of it (unless you regularly go for Vienna/French roasts). My drum is a somewhat shiny very light brown inside, so it should not hold heat that much on the inside.
But playing with a "car metaphor", the gas gives acceleration. Lift your foot and the car will coast and just very slowly loose speed (due to the weight momentum of the whole car). The fan equals the brakes. We all know that the fan(s) provided with the Huky are very powerful. I only use 100% fan when going for a rapid cooldown of the whole system, like after my last roast of the session (or if I'm way over my intended charge temp).

[SusanJoM]

Just a quick note about the swedish "Gasol". That is the "standard" propane in Sweden. It doesn't differ much from pure propane, just some butane mixed in for cold weather. The difference would be max 10% from pure propane.

I think my question from earlier in the thread got lost, so I'm going to ask it again.  Is it so that you never use more than 1.8 kPa during the roast? 

[edtbjon]

No, I hardly ever have to use more than 1.8kPa during the roast, even when I roast a full load. I usually roast 300g loads and then my max is around 1.5kPa.

[SusanJoM]

I, however, would need yet another new gauge if the top of the useful kPa's is only 1.8.
And I have no idea how someone would cope with that using the oem gauge.

The oem gauge  0  - 7 kPa.
The new gauge 0 - 3.75 kPa

[edtbjon]

I, however, would need yet another new gauge if the top of the useful kPa's is only 1.8.
And I have no idea how someone would cope with that using the oem gauge.

The oem gauge  0  - 7 kPa.
The new gauge 0 - 3.75 kPa

Apart from this I also have problems with the bank teller machine not having anything but (the equivivialent of) $100 bills...

[SusanJoM]

 
 
 

[SusanJoM]

Back to the original question, the airflow is quite different between solid and perforated drums. I have a diagram from a Japanese roasting manual illustrating this point and will try to dig it up.

Hank, did you ever find this diagram? 
AND did you order an inline bilge blower? 

My cyclone tower came tumbling down yesterday which reminded me that I really need a less top-heavy way of pulling the air through....