Huky Forum
HUKY 500 (T, J, SOLID, PERF) => Pictures => Topic started by: Crzyworm623 on March 05, 2016, 11:16:53 AM
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I just introduced myself over in the Introduction section, so I'll use this thread to expand on my purchase and my cart build in hopes to help the next guy. I have everyone on here to thank for the final results as I took a little bit from everyone.
February 9th, 2016
My HUKY 500 T order.
--I ordered two full orders at once, which MR. LI provided a small discount on the 500T normally 1180.
-- I was real nervous sending $3400.00 to some PayPal account. So many unknowns, but so far I am glad I did.
500T perforated drum 48 rpm----1144 USD with quick connect.
Propane ir stove-------------------------99 USD
Exhaust hood-----------------------------49 USD
Extra probe for MET--------------------16 USD
BT & ET probe come with Huky-------0
Extra sieve/tray---------------------------16 USD
Extra fan-----------------------------------48 USD
Extra funnel-------------------------------14 USD
Extra motor set 72rpm------------------78 USD
Solid drum----------------------------------98 USD
Shipping-----------------------------------186 USD
I suggest everyone order everything listed above, other than maybe the extra motor set and the extra drum. I felt for the extra $200.00 it was worth ordering the extra motor set along with the Solid Drum now, than to decide later on I wanted it, and adding the extra shipping expense.
March 1, 2016
-- I got an email from MR. LI saying my first roaster shipped
March 4, 2016
-- USPS called saying I had a large package waiting for me. Roaster arrived.
I immediately unboxed it. Mr. Li packaged it very nicely, I'm not sure how he even got it all in there the way he did.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2016.09.06_zpsjepfjfqt.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2016.09.06_zpsjepfjfqt.jpg.html)
Everything was boxed, and doubled boxed, some even triple boxed.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2016.10.30_zpsgb9ky4q7.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2016.10.30_zpsgb9ky4q7.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2016.11.42_zpsir855o3e.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2016.11.42_zpsir855o3e.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2016.29.07_zpsydgpu9oj.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2016.29.07_zpsydgpu9oj.jpg.html)
I was impressed, came with a nice bag of tools, made putting the few parts together very easy
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2016.35.13_zpszlw0w2v1.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2016.35.13_zpszlw0w2v1.jpg.html)
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Now onto my build
Part 1: Parts
I will try to post all links and prices for everything I used. I ordered everything before the roaster arrived, and did I ever get lucky with how things worked out. Things are listed in no particular order, and bought from the respective sites out of convenience.
I purchased this from Walmart The Main Cart (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Seville-Classics-UltraHD-Rolling-Storage-Cabinet-with-Drawers/22228868)
If you are a Sams club member you can get it a few $$ cheaper. Walmart had free shipping so it basically ended up being the same price, unless you can pick up in store.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/Capture_zpsln7tu3ba.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/Capture_zpsln7tu3ba.jpg.html)
Other Items purchased from Walmart.com
Rubber Grommets (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wearing-Resistant-30mm-Inner-Dia-Double-Side-Rubber-Grommet-2-Pcs/47554516/)
2" Computer Desk Stainless Grommet (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stainless-Steel-52mm-2-Grommets-Computer-Office-Desk-Table-Counter-Top-Cable/45585357)
2" Computer Desk Grommet -Gray Platic (http://www.walmart.com/ip/PC-Desk-2-Dia-Grommet-Cable-Hole-Cover-Gray-4-Pcs/45588320)
Beaker (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lab-Kitchen-1000mL-Graduated-Beaker-Liquid-Measurement-Cup/45514740)
2" Hole Saw (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vermont-American-18332N-2-inch-Carbon-Steel-Hole-Saw/19902160)
4" Vent Hood (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Deflecto-4-Galvanized-Vent-Hood/24074024)
Mason Jars (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ball-12-Count-Regular-Mouth-Quart-Jars-with-Lids-and-Bands/21290188)
Also from Walmart a 2$ wooden stir Paddle (found in store)
Items Purchased from HomeDepot.com
3/4 male terminal (http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Male-Terminal-Adapter-R5140104/202043511)
1 gang weatherproof box 3/4" (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bell-1-Gang-Weatherproof-Box-Three-1-2-in-or-3-4-in-Outlets-PSB37550GY/202284546)
3 Gange Weatherproof box (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bell-3-Gang-Weatherproof-Deep-Box-with-Seven-3-4-in-Outlets-5390-0/203638238)
Strain Relief Cord Connector (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-4-in-ACC-Non-Metallic-Strain-Relief-Cord-Connector-27697/202077092)
co2/explosive gas dector (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-Plug-In-Combination-Explosive-Gas-Carbon-Monoxide-Alarm-Detector-with-Battery-Back-up-KN-COEG-3/100003545)
Conduit Body (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3-4-in-PVC-Type-LB-Conduit-Body-E986E-CTN/100404084)
T Conduit Body (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3-4-in-PVC-Type-T-Conduit-Body-E983E-CTN/100404034)
3/4 PVC Conduit (http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-3-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67454/100129197)
3/4 PVC Elbow x a few (http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Schedule-40-PVC-90-Degree-Elbow-C406-007/100347455)
From Amazon.com
OVE GLOVE (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSIOCVQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00)
LED Desk Lamp (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KN8ZT0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00)
** I got this on sale for about 24.99, it has multiple lighting colors (COOL, WHITE, WARM) along with a dimmer. It is really nice, solid, with metal frame. If I had to buy one again I would look for one that also rotates, so the light can be shined left and right.
2.5 to 3" Silicon Reducer 45 degree bend (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XKDEVIQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00)
4" Hose Clamps (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QWTJY4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02)
3" Hose Clamps (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GC74S0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02)
Quick connect dryer vent (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZT5AQ6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01)
3" Dryer Duct (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKMBDY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01)
3 to 4" duct reducer (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B79OA4A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01)
thread paste (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PU9CK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00)
** Tried using a quick connect on the propane stove, didn't have enough parts, will work on that in future
3x Outlets (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3BS9Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00)
Gray wall plate (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DVLW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00)
Appliance extension Cord (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066GNWW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00)
3 combo switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B51IE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00)
3 gang wall plate (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017L1KNM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00)
Variac (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00)
Scott Rao Coffee Companion (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1495118193?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)
1 1/4 hole saw (http://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-1772491-Bi-Metal-Arbored/dp/B0052EC44Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1457209588&sr=8-1&keywords=lenox+1+1%2F4+hole+saw)
14/2 wire (http://www.amazon.com/SouthWire-28827421-2WG-Wire-25-Foot/dp/B000BQKC10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457209673&sr=8-2&keywords=14%2F2+wire)
Other Misc Parts
1/4 " drive extension
Wire Nuts
Velcro
Double Sided Tape
Phidget (http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=35&product_id=1048_0)
Enclosure (http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3810)
Leak Test Liquid (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Y9ZT5E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Vacuum (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JILGZOC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Flanges (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O1VS08?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00)
1.5 " PVC
cheapest hole saw kit, good enough for 4 holes (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W8EE44?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01)
brass elbow (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE7L000?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01)
1x4 x 14'
1x8 x 14'
Wood Glue, Nail Gun, Stain
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Part 2: The build
I didn't go crazy with taking pictures during the build, because I honestly had no idea where it was going.
First thing I did was build the cart: The Seville Cart from Walmart arrived in about 2 days, It is not assembled at all, and the box has to be around 100lbs. It took a good hour plus to assemble. Everything was nicely labeled, but it is a lot of screws and a lot of pieces for a small cart.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/Capture_zpsln7tu3ba.jpg)
The left side is a cabinet comes with 1 height adjustable shelf. (SEE WALMART PICTURES)
***My build cart almost ended right here, a 20lb propane tank will not fit in the cabinet side with the door on. Take the door off and it slides in with about a 1/64" room to spare. The door comes on and off easily with 6 small screws. I don't think I'll be burning through propane so I don't see this being a real issue.
Next step was to create the electrical supply, I wanted to have 6 Outlets.
-Motor
-Exhaust Fan
-Cooling Fan
-Co2 / Explosive Gas detector
-Lamp
-Computer
I'm in no way an electrician, or have really any experience with this type of thing, but after about 2 hours of assembling this, it all worked. I am not going to go into detail how I wired anything, because I have no business teaching how to do it. I used the appliance 14 ga extension cord, that I cut the receiving plug off. The 3 combo switch is nice as it only needs one hot run to it. The outlets were wired so that the top of the duplex is switched, and the bottom ones are always hot.
This allows for the 2 fans/Variac and motor to be switched on and off with the switch, while keeping my lamp, detector, and computer powered.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-03%2021.41.53_zpsxfplmlzx.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-03%2021.41.53_zpsxfplmlzx.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-03%2021.42.04-1_zps8delbiq4.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-03%2021.42.04-1_zps8delbiq4.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2016.17.18_zpsvntfnlm1.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2016.17.18_zpsvntfnlm1.jpg.html)
**cracked the wall plate, whoops, but you don't see it so IDC
My next step was to mount it on the shelf in the cabinet, with the switch mounted to the left side.
This was accomplished by using a cutting wheel on my dremel and cutting out a box big enough to slide the switch into. The switch needs to be mounted on the outside, so I had to remove the switch from the box, wire it through the cut out, push it all back in trying to line it up with not much working room.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-04%2022.35.00_zpsyyamq2je.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-04%2022.35.00_zpsyyamq2je.jpg.html)
Now going to the back of the cart. I used the 2" Hole saw and cut out a hole (this saw is not made for metal, I suggest buying a 2nd one that is, or you can struggle with it like I did. After the hole is drilled insert a 2" plastic desk grommet
While back there I drilled a 1.25 hole that lined up with the height of the propane tank / regulator, inserting a rubber grommet to protect the propane hose.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.13.24-1_zpsgpibpbmk.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.13.24-1_zpsgpibpbmk.jpg.html)
After arranging the roaster pretty much dead center of the table, I had the exhaust fan and cooling fan placed where they needed to be. The wire from the exhaust fan just drops over the back and into the 2" grommet where the main power was run. The lamp plug also runs into that hole (the wire is run along the top and with a few pieces of duct tape is taped out of site)
This was the tricky part, knowing where I wanted to drill the next holes. I again drilled a 2" hole using the hole saw. This hole is for the thermocoupler wires and the the cooling fan. They just drop right into the left side of the cart, easily plugged in. I used the metal one here for a nicer look. Took a good few whacks with a rubber mallet to seat it.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.13.54_zpsb44hfs06.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.13.54_zpsb44hfs06.jpg.html)
After dropping the thermocoupler wires in, I disconnected the attached plugs, pulled a bit more wire out and wired it to the phidget. I used some velcro to attach the phidget to the underside of the table top.
I also drilled a 1 1/4" hole in the divider between the drawers and the cabinet. Using a rubber grommet to protect the wires. I use this hole to run the USB from the phidget and the computer power, to the top drawer, which is used as a shelf / storage for my laptop.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.23.44_zpsb9sb5mcm.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.23.44_zpsb9sb5mcm.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.23.54_zps98gkzz7p.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.23.54_zps98gkzz7p.jpg.html)
The variac, this proved a bit more challenging. I really didn't want it on the counter. For 1, there was too many wires, and 2 its out of place compared to the rest of things.
The knob should easily come off with 2 set screws. The one set screw on mine, the slot for a screw driver was broken so that proved a bit of a challenge to get it to loosen.
Im sure there is a better way to do this, but I had to extend the shaft that connects the knob. A 1/4" ratchet extension (the side that a socket attaches to) fit perfectly into the knob. Tighten the set screw and its secure. The other side almost fit onto the shaft, with a little dremmel work, I was able to make it slip onto the shaft.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.31.07_zpshoyodj7f.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.31.07_zpshoyodj7f.jpg.html)
Im not sure what size drill bit I used, but It was just slightly larger than the diameter of the extension.
I used a small metal plate I had around to raise the variac up, just enough so that the top of the new "shaft" made the knob sit just above the table.
Almost forgot, I used a heat gun very briefly on the dial, using a small flat head, followed by a plastic pry, the dial label came up. That was then held down to the table with double sided tape, and the knob attached.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.13.45-1_zpsfxcighkt.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.13.45-1_zpsfxcighkt.jpg.html)
Getting pretty cramped on the shelf
That's pretty much it, here are pictures of the final build. Plenty of drawer space, and everything is neatly organized. For the mean time, this is going to be stored in my kitchen, and with this, I don't mind looking at it, nor does it look out of place.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.12.23_zps6vrj2djq.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.12.23_zps6vrj2djq.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.11.32_zps7xa8ktzm.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.11.32_zps7xa8ktzm.jpg.html)
** Notice the Co2 and explosive gas detector. It detects propane and Co2 it is a dual unit. It can be stored in the cart and stays powered on with battery. It can easily be moved onto the top. I will check regularly for leaks with soapy water, but I suggest getting one of these, can never be too safe.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.22.17-1_zpseexpgxti.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.22.17-1_zpseexpgxti.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.15.19_zpsxy5a0gac.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.15.19_zpsxy5a0gac.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2013.12.52_zpsfrpsxmaa.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2013.12.52_zpsfrpsxmaa.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.46.17_zpss8pxpva3.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.46.17_zpss8pxpva3.jpg.html)
Had a couple of hooks laying around, they used the carts screws to secure, keeps the power out of the way while rolling
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.46.58_zpscwzbejit.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.46.58_zpscwzbejit.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.47.09_zpsswqvxsjy.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.47.09_zpsswqvxsjy.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-05%2016.47.15_zpspfzribkz.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-05%2016.47.15_zpspfzribkz.jpg.html)
Thanks for checking out my build, any questions I'll be glad to answer. Now I just need to roast my first batch. I wasn't expecting it to come so soon, so I never ordered any :(
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Finally got a chance to finish up my exhaust today. I'm pretty happy with it. Id like to maybe do hard pipe, but for now this works.
I really wanted to build an insert for a window, but my windows are not the type that slide up and down. That would have made things a whole lot easier. I decided the next best option was to make an insert for my sliding glass door. (I remembered a long time ago a friend had one to add a pet door, which gave me the idea)
Step one: Measure 20 times, cut just as many times until it actually fits.
I used 1x8 and 1x4 #2 pine as its the cheapest option at my local lumber supply
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2016.16.12_zpsibhvmph3.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2016.16.12_zpsibhvmph3.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2016.16.27_zpsygws2tqi.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2016.16.27_zpsygws2tqi.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2016.16.36_zpsrxfsay6u.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2016.16.36_zpsrxfsay6u.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2016.16.41_zpsfxtbzs3b.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2016.16.41_zpsfxtbzs3b.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2017.34.42_zps0lwkgrht.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2017.34.42_zps0lwkgrht.jpg.html)
4" Hole saw for the exhaust, plus had to sand out the hole to actually fit the exhaust duct.
Insulated it. Had some 2" and 1" rigid insulation from a past job. Filled the inside.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2019.32.05_zps9phwtnsy.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2019.32.05_zps9phwtnsy.jpg.html)
Stained using left over stain from my house
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-13%2019.32.11_zpsxlbl1oga.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-13%2019.32.11_zpsxlbl1oga.jpg.html)
Cut the Exhaust Duct to the proper length, the white piece is a quick connect for 4" dryer ducting
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-14%2013.11.28_zpsqb00b91i.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-14%2013.11.28_zpsqb00b91i.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-15%2017.49.13_zpsatqtdjql.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-15%2017.49.13_zpsatqtdjql.jpg.html)
All assembled, added some foam insulation tape to both sides, to try and get a good air tight seal (Small gap, #2 pine is not the best as the boards are often warped)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-15%2017.50.18_zpsldhc8kvo.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-15%2017.50.18_zpsldhc8kvo.jpg.html)
Wanted to have the propane tank outside. Decided to use 1.5" pvc which is just big enough to run the hose and quick connect through. Found those Slip Flanges on amazon, I didn't realize how big they were, nothing in my local store.
Used a 2.5" hole saw to cut the required size hole.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-15%2017.50.27_zps3a01ztdi.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-15%2017.50.27_zps3a01ztdi.jpg.html)
This is the outside, before attaching the quick connect, I drilled out a #9 rubber stopper. This allows me to run the line into the house and seal the remainder of the hole.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-15%2017.50.42_zpsnqwhdgfy.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-15%2017.50.42_zpsnqwhdgfy.jpg.html)
completed door insert
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-14%2014.15.35_zpsgupw9c8b.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-14%2014.15.35_zpsgupw9c8b.jpg.html)
Used a 3 to 2.5" silicon 45 Elbow, some 3" semi rigid ducting, a 4" adjustable 90 degree, and a 3 to 4" reducer, along with the 4" quick connect...
The silicon is nice because it stays on the exhaust without a clamp. I can disconnect the ducting from the door insert from the white quick connect, and slide off the silicon adapter for easy storage.
I also swapped out the stock barb, and added a 90 degree elbow. I needed a washer to keep things snug, new male hose barb.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-14%2015.35.41_zpsejsczfes.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-14%2015.35.41_zpsejsczfes.jpg.html)
And I'm ready to roast.
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Updated Exhaust March 27, 2017
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New exhaust design that should eliminate any turbulence and flow restrictions created by the flex pipe not being fully flexed and often sagged. 2nd problem was wind was causing quite a bit of back pressure and prevented the dryer flap from opening freely. 3rd concern, after a small exhaust bowl fire I was concerned about the build up in the flex pipe that couldn't be cleaned.
The setup is now mainly 2.5" only up sizing to 3" as it exits vs going to 3" then 4". By the time the exhaust exited there was almost no pressure which would allow the wind to blow back in. The new design allows for a smooth restriction-free flow, and the vent cap is designed for high winds to prevent down drafts. Only downside I see is now I'm pretty locked into the roaster location, where as with flex I had some room for adjustments. This would make for a nice permanent setup if you have the room.
Parts:
Selkirk 3'' RV High Wind Top - 103802 (http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Selkirk-3-RV-High-Wind-Top-103802-3RV-HWT-p27443.html)
Selkirk Metalbestos 3RV-DH 3-Inch RV Draft Hood Connector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZHD1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Wall Support Bracket 3 in. Selkirk 243520 (http://www.midlandhardware.com/154952.html)
Selkirk 90 Degree Elbow 3 in. 103230 (http://www.midlandhardware.com/693739.html)
Selkirk Round Type B Gas Vent 3 in. 187703 (http://www.midlandhardware.com/790113.html)
3.0" to 2.5" inch Silicone Coupler Straight Reducer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PWRS82S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
45-Deg Elbow Coupler, ID 2.5" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEI2XE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=)
Upgr8 Universal Outside Diameter Polished Aluminum Pipe (2.5"(63MM), 90 Degree) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FAUTUO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Silcon, Clamps, extra silicon coupler I cut up to fill the gap between the 3" piping and the 4" hole I had cut previously
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2017-03-27%2018.40.54_zpswkvkexxs.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2017-03-27%2018.40.54_zpswkvkexxs.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2017-03-27%2019.11.09_zpsphu82svi.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2017-03-27%2019.11.09_zpsphu82svi.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2017-03-27%2019.11.26_zpszfgl3nhx.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2017-03-27%2019.11.26_zpszfgl3nhx.jpg.html)
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You killed it!!! Phenomenal job
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Very nice...it looks great.
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That is slick!
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So im starting to reconsider my propane placement. I know per state code and law, that propane tanks should not be stored in the house. I went the extra step with a gas detector, but its still making me nervous. I've never once had a tank leak, but i've also never stored them the house. Usually outside in my shed or a rubbermaid deck box, or under the grill.
I really dont want to be connecting and disconnecting the hose / regulator often, as that is only going to create leaks. Its also a pain to remove the tank, being the door needs to come off.
I suppose I can go a quick connect option and just move the tank inside when I roast, and back out when finish. Having it inside while im around doesn't worry me. Having a leak when i'm out of the home does, a gas detector going off with no one home to hear it, may end up being too late and spark an explosion.
Thoughts?
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If you are going to move the gas to outside, I suggest you upgrade that gas line to a better one and add a shut off right at the stove.
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I think I'm going to copy your idea with the Variac. I hate having that take up so much room on my bench, and this seems like a great solution.
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If you are going to move the gas to outside, I suggest you upgrade that gas line to a better one and add a shut off right at the stove.
Do you know what parts you used.
I had bought a quick connect. But it didn't thread on completely after removing the barb end off the stove and the flow was backwards.
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Sorry, someone did this for me so I can't give you a parts list.
I will see if I can find out, though.
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Wow.. that set up is amazing.
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Sorry, someone did this for me so I can't give you a parts list.
I will see if I can find out, though.
Thanks, but Don't trouble yourself. After doing some looking at parts I think Ive figured out what I'm going to do.
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This is an amazing job!! Very clean!
Happy Roasting!
Jerry
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That is a fantastic cart build. I will probably be copying a lot of what you did. Great work and thanks for the detail so the rest of us can copy your work.
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Thanks guys glad you all like it. I didn't initially keep track of the cost. I ended up spending around 700$ including the variac and Mason jars and a few extra accessories. Added up fast. I did end up with a bunch of extra Un used items that I didn't list. So hopefully get a little back in returns.
Hoping to complete the exhaust set up today. Spent the last two days at the NYC coffee festival. Lot of great short lectures. Eye openers and broad over view of all parts of the industry.
Itching to get my first roast.
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I got around to finishing my exhaust (updated post #3) and got my first roast out the way.
I am really happy with my set up. Easy to wheel over, set up, roast and tear down. Since I no longer store the propane tank in the door side, I have plenty of room for storing my exhaust ducting, my green beans, and a small black and Decker 20v lithium vacuum. (might try to install a second shelf)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-14%2015.35.47_zpsla9oqskb.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-14%2015.35.47_zpsla9oqskb.jpg.html)
455 Grams of Rwanda Misozi (part of a sample pack)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2016-03-14%2016.34.18_zpsmqgvppgb.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2016-03-14%2016.34.18_zpsmqgvppgb.jpg.html)
Looks nice, smells nice
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/first%20roast%20profile%20graph%202.jpg_zpsa9hosxh4.png) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/first%20roast%20profile%20graph%202.jpg_zpsa9hosxh4.png.html)
First graph, I think I went a bit long, a little dark, but I also don't see a lot of oils on the surface.
It was an exciting process, I can't wait to try them, its been about 24 hours, so maybe tonight before work.
Critique is requested on my roast.
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The roast looks great to me. It doesn't look like a dark roast, and you have a great amount of development after 1C. I'm sure it will taste very good, assuming they're good greens :)
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That is some beautiful and very neat set-up right there. Well done!
Enjoy roasting.
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The roast looks great to me. It doesn't look like a dark roast, and you have a great amount of development after 1C. I'm sure it will taste very good, assuming they're good greens :)
Thanks Daave. Just brewed up my first cup, and it is delicious. Natural sweetness, without being overly fruity. Smooth, with no bitterness or sour (I need to work on my cupping tastes). I had this bean a few month back form Drift Away Coffee as part of my subscription. It's just as every bit as good, if not better, but Im biased since I roasted it ;D.
Measured a 20.3 % extraction using 19.8 grams coffee and 317 grams water ~ 16:1 in a V60
That is some beautiful and very neat set-up right there. Well done!
Enjoy roasting.
Thank you, I got carried away with it, but I love doing this type of thing. Enjoy.
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So now with a little experience, what would you change about your roasting cart ? anything ?
thanks !
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So now with a little experience, what would you change about your roasting cart ? anything ?
thanks !
Sorry just saw this. I can't say I would really change anything. I'm super happy with it. Everything works as is, and I've had no issues.
Only change is I upgraded my Pressure Gauge.
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Great ! Good for you !
I was very inspired by your cart when I build my own one, so thank you !
I just did'nt reach to get out the button of the variac for now, so it's not very practical, and I have no time to think about it.
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That is a really great and fancy setup.
I can tell that you really enjoy building stuff and solving practical challenges in unconventional ways as you go.
;) ;)
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So just a quick update. I had to make a slight change to fix a major problem. I have been roasting for a few months and my graphs, specifically the delta BT, always look choppy and were not very useful to me. My buddy who also has a huky came over and roasted and couldn't believe how bad the readings were. I had to have smoothing up so high to have something remotely decent looking, but during roasting the line was useless. BT and ET seemed to be alright, but I think those smooth on the fly, where Delta BT smooths post roast.
After a bunch of trouble shooting, I found out that by running the thermocoupler wires next to one of the fan power cords, and into the cart where all the outlets are, caused major EMI.
Pulled the phidget out of the cart and mounted it on the back away from the power cords, routing the wires along the right side of the roaster and down the back.. Completely changed my roasting and how my roasts track. I actually have a readable delta bt during roasting.
Another note, when using a grounded power plug connected to my laptop, if the roaster was grounded to the cart, I would get no readings from the thermocoupler. Unplugged fine, or non grounded plug I had no issues. Currently the roaster is not grounded and I'm getting great clean readings,with the wires mounted away from all electric.
This is something you will want to keep In mind as many others have had similar issues. Or if you are getting choppy readings be conscious of what your wires touch.
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Crzyworm623
What did you end up going with for your propane setup? I am in the same mind that I do not want the tank inside but have not figured out an easy way to hook and unhook to the tank. The threading and unthreading of the regulator takes time and is finicky to get it to trigger propane flow. The match is not perfect probably as the tank was mfg in Canada and regulator came from Mr Li.
If any one else wants to post on their solutions please do. Basically a bombproof quick release for gas.
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Crzyworm623
What did you end up going with for your propane setup? I am in the same mind that I do not want the tank inside but have not figured out an easy way to hook and unhook to the tank. The threading and unthreading of the regulator takes time and is finicky to get it to trigger propane flow. The match is not perfect probably as the tank was mfg in Canada and regulator came from Mr Li.
If any one else wants to post on their solutions please do. Basically a bombproof quick release for gas.
I have a quick disconnect on the propane stove, and I just run the hose through the exhaust door insert with a rubber stopper to seal the draft. The propane sits outside my door. I have to hook it up every time. I removed the rubber gasket on the end of the regulator and have no issues with it seating and getting flow. No over tightening and its just a bit of pain to thread on the last few turns.
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Crzyworm
Ok, thanks for the suggestion on removing the rubber gasket.
Do you have any part info/mfg on the propane quick disconnect? That's looks to be a good fit for my setup.
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A write up at the Phidget website alludes to EFI sensitivity of the wire conductors leading to the thermocouples.
Their suggestion is to install ferrite beads on the thermocouple leads to filter out the interference if it is a problem.
The ferrite beads are inexpensive and available at any Ham Radio retailer website. I would also go one better and shield the board itself by mounting it inside a grounded small metal enclosure as well.
You want to avoid electrical ground loops as well so that everything has a common ground point.
Edit: It's hard to tell what's going on with the grounded laptop power adapter without more detail but it sounds like a thermocouple or it's signal lead wire is shorted to the roaster. With the roaster ground floating, it works, albeit with temperature data jitter.
As you describe it, with the roaster provided a path to ground at the electrical outlet, there is a problem. If you check for thermocouple probe/leads shorts to the roaster with an ohmmeter you will likely sort out the ground issues.
Second Edit: Went looking for the 1048 manual and found what can also provide insight with the issues you are reporting on data jitter and/or ground issues
(https://i.sli.mg/SrOmCP.jpg)
Image is a screen capture from this Phidiget users document: http://www.phidgets.com/docs/1048_User_Guide (http://www.phidgets.com/docs/1048_User_Guide)
The Huky's thermocouple hookups pdf, All Things Phidiget, is here for reference: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4HTX5wS3NB2TFVid0h2TGxBWG8 (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B4HTX5wS3NB2TFVid0h2TGxBWG8)
So just a quick update. I had to make a slight change to fix a major problem. I have been roasting for a few months and my graphs, specifically the delta BT, always look choppy and were not very useful to me. My buddy who also has a huky came over and roasted and couldn't believe how bad the readings were. I had to have smoothing up so high to have something remotely decent looking, but during roasting the line was useless. BT and ET seemed to be alright, but I think those smooth on the fly, where Delta BT smooths post roast.
After a bunch of trouble shooting, I found out that by running the thermocoupler wires next to one of the fan power cords, and into the cart where all the outlets are, caused major EMI.
Pulled the phidget out of the cart and mounted it on the back away from the power cords, routing the wires along the right side of the roaster and down the back.. Completely changed my roasting and how my roasts track. I actually have a readable delta bt during roasting.
Another note, when using a grounded power plug connected to my laptop, if the roaster was grounded to the cart, I would get no readings from the thermocoupler. Unplugged fine, or non grounded plug I had no issues. Currently the roaster is not grounded and I'm getting great clean readings,with the wires mounted away from all electric.
This is something you will want to keep In mind as many others have had similar issues. Or if you are getting choppy readings be conscious of what your wires touch.
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Crzyworm623
What did you end up going with for your propane setup? I am in the same mind that I do not want the tank inside but have not figured out an easy way to hook and unhook to the tank. The threading and unthreading of the regulator takes time and is finicky to get it to trigger propane flow. The match is not perfect probably as the tank was mfg in Canada and regulator came from Mr Li.
If any one else wants to post on their solutions please do. Basically a bombproof quick release for gas.
Based on your setup, with the limited clearance, do you think this cart would work as well in the side without the drawer? Same height as the one you used. I'm not looking to do as much internally so figured this should work fine for me, as well as being much cheaper! Thanks!
I have a quick disconnect on the propane stove, and I just run the hose through the exhaust door insert with a rubber stopper to seal the draft. The propane sits outside my door. I have to hook it up every time. I removed the rubber gasket on the end of the regulator and have no issues with it seating and getting flow. No over tightening and its just a bit of pain to thread on the last few turns.
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IRB123, I'm not sure I understand your question.
As far as the quick disconnect goes. This is the one I purchased
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HG7TFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKJVybDBMWTPQ (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HG7TFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKJVybDBMWTPQ)
To attach the quick disconnected to the hose I went hardware store and found a hose barb with a 1/4" Male NPT. The barb should fit snugly inside the supplied hose. Then I used 2 small hose clamps to secure it.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31%2BlOfP6hVL.jpg) Image for reference only.
I am not sure what size the barb end was. I tried ordering a bunch off amazon and finally ended going to the store to find what I needed. The Quick disconnect with the lever gets attached to the hose barb, using proper sealant on the connections.
For the stove, I found a 90 degree elbow https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE7L000/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE7L000/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I think that is the one I ended up using, I don't remember as I had to do a bunch of trial and error to find the right size, best bet is to just go to the hardware store with the stove and find one that will thread onto the stove. I used a washer between the stove and the 90 to snug it down, again use sealant made for propane on the threaded connections. The other part of the quick disconnect gets attached to the 90 elbow.
I'll try to get some close up pictures up, and keep an eye on this post. Thats a quick answer as I'm running late for work and trying to get a roast in.
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I was wondering if you thought the propane tank would fit in the cart I posted a picture of with the different configuration, with the drawer being there.
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Still working on my setup but got this quick disconnect
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007HG7TFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Had to pickup some additional items from Home Depot to hook up to the gas line. Checked with soapy water and no issues. Not sure how long this will hold for but safety checks each time.
Now I don't have to unthread from the gas tank. :)
(http://)
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Still working on my setup but got this quick disconnect
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007HG7TFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Had to pickup some additional items from Home Depot to hook up to the gas line. Checked with soapy water and no issues. Not sure how long this will hold for but safety checks each time.
Now I don't have to unthread from the gas tank. :)
(http://)
SAFETY ALERT!!! The shut off valve needs to be attached to the hose, the way it is now, as soon as you turn on the tank propane is going to start flowing out of the hose. If you attach the shut off valve to the hose, even in the "on" position gas will not flow until the other end is inserted. The way you have it now is potentially very dangerous.
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I was wondering if you thought the propane tank would fit in the cart I posted a picture of with the different configuration, with the drawer being there.
I had plenty of room above the tank, but you should be able to find some dimensions for the interior of the cabinet to be sure. There may be a middle support between the doors that would get in the way. My tank fit inside, but the hinge on the door was just enough to make it so the tank could not slide in and out. You can always find smaller tanks like a 8-10lb. My tank is stored outside, and kept outside during roasting. I don't suggest bringing a propane tank inside.
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(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2017-03-08%2013.47.01_zpsgojnjpfx.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2017-03-08%2013.47.01_zpsgojnjpfx.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2017-03-08%2013.48.11_zpsz0hmlaap.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2017-03-08%2013.48.11_zpsz0hmlaap.jpg.html)
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Crzyworm623
re Safety Concern
Thanks for the comments. I'll change it up. Strange though I turned the tank valve open(all outside) and although there was a minor pit of pressure the gas stopped so not sure if the regulator has a safety that stops flow. The way you show is more secure and also should protect the quick connect better.
Also question how did you join the 3" dia line vent line onto the nylon reducer? It looks like you cut it, slid it over, and then used heat tape and clamps?
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Crzyworm623
Also question how did you join the 3" dia line vent line onto the nylon reducer? It looks like you cut it, slid it over, and then used heat tape and clamps?
sometimes you have to purge the regulator to get the flow to start but once its flowing, nothing is stopping it, so yea swap the parts.
For the exhaust, I cant remember if I found a ducting connector/coupler or If I made one out of stainless roof flashing. I think I made it by just just cutting a piece of roof flashing, rolling it to size and riveting it. It fit snug inside the nylon, and the 3" dryer hose. Secured with clamps and foil tape. No cutting of the nylon or dryer hose.
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Crzyworm623, where did you find the 1.25" grommets you used? I've been having trouble finding anything. Thanks!
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Crzyworm623, where did you find the 1.25" grommets you used? I've been having trouble finding anything. Thanks!
Sorry for the delay. I'm going to turn on notifications.
Not exactly sure what grommets you are reffering to, but
Everything I got was either from Walmart.com Amazon.com or Homedepot.com
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Just finished a redesign of my exhaust. check out reply 3 on page 1 for more details (https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php/topic,896.msg9845.html#msg9845)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b538/crzyworm623/2017-03-27%2019.11.26_zpszfgl3nhx.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/crzyworm623/media/2017-03-27%2019.11.26_zpszfgl3nhx.jpg.html)
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Nice job. I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what is that on the outside wall? A filter of some type, like a charcoal scrubber, or something?
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Nice job. I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what is that on the outside wall? A filter of some type, like a charcoal scrubber, or something?
I'm assuming you mean the round thing outside. It's a high wind chimney vent cap for RVs. Its just a wind screen around an otherwise normal draft vent.
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Yes, I meant the round, metal thing. :)