First roast tasting burnt

[Adondo]

Hi guys! I'm in the beginning of learning how to roast with the Huky. I've done a few roasts, all of which tastes burnt. After doing this roast i learned that the start of FC of brazilian beans could vary in the sense that you could be fooled when the FC actually starts. Therefore the markings in this profile should be taken with a pinch of salt. The right ones is the charge obviously aswell as the drop. After dropping I guess it takes 20-30 sec until the beans are in the cooling tray. What could be the reason for this taste? This has happened for all batches I've done during these first days. You could tell by the smell of espresso that it is burnt already without even tasting it.

Greetings, Robin

[Adondo]

Dont know why the picture didnt attach, here is a new try.

[brew]

I personally have never taken a coffee to that temp before drop.  If I did, I would expect a burnt taste.  I don't think your FC mark is that far off, it could of been a bit earlier but I think you are close.  For starters, I would do the same thing you have already done but drop a little sooner.  Just don't change too many things at once.

[Adondo]

Thanks for your reply. Will try it. I trie

[Adondo]

I tried dropping just 5 degrees before but with no result. Ill go even lower next time. Will this result in not hitting SC if i drop it in before the cracking starts? don't know how to edit posts that's why I did a 2nd respond.

[brew]

I suspect you blew through SC without noticing.  I wouldn't pay too much attention on SC and would probably start using the trier at about 212c and probably drop close to 215 or so.  I use a perforated drum and haven't roasted many Brazilians but I would focus on the smell vs trying to decide when SC is.

[Wayneg1]

I think you were pretty aggressive in the beginning with this bean.  I would try slowing it down a bit in the beginning and let it develop a bit slower. 

[edtbjon]

Yes, at that partiular roast, I'd say that 2C would start at around 220 or so. As you went 10 deg past that, it's really way into Wienna, Spanish or whatever you denominate it. I take it the beans are pretty oily and black.
Anyhow, try to aim for a drop temp below 220 and assess your results from there.
(Bara så att du vet. Jag skulle nog kalla 230 grader för kremering. ... eller kanske Statoil eller vad de nu kallar sig...)

[LTB]

Same has the guys said !
I'd drop around 215/220 maximum ! And try to avoid the "flick" on your deltaBT, maybe putting more airflow sooner ? And charge a little lower ?

You didn't mentionned wich quantity of beans you used, did you ? Neither if there were washed beans or natural dried ?

[Adondo]

Thanks yet again for replys! I did a re-roast yesterday with the best result yet by far!

Not sure how the quality parameters look like but this is what they say on the website I ordered them.
They call them "Brazil - Matas de Minas" and this is how the quality is expressed: "Dried Arabica Screen Screnn 16 up.  farmed at 600-1200 m above ocean level"

[Adondo]

I added 350g of beans! (still don't knwo how to edit a post lol)

[SusanJoM]

I added 350g of beans! (still don't knwo how to edit a post lol)

You can't.  Don't worry about it. 

[hankua]

So far it looks like your roasting a Brazil for espresso on a solid drum Huky. Brazil's are usually low grown and not washed during processing. Let's look at "taking it easy".

One very easy way to "take it easy" is to charge at a lower temperature. Probably you've noticed the very first roast is going to run a bit differently than subsequent ones; especially on heavier machines.

Charging lower extends the drying phase, everything is going to catch up by the time you get to 150-160c the typical end to that phase. First crack is generally going to occur at @200c, between these two milestones is "the ramp to 1C".

If your following a "Rao profile" or declining ROR (rate of rise) the heat should be tapered down during the ramp phase. Another way to apply heat is to use a fixed gas setting for the entire roast except the RD (roast development phase) phase starting after 1C.

If your roasting 350g try charging at 150c at .50kPa at at the turning point (@1:30 later) raise the gas to 3kPa. 160c 2kPa, 170c 1kpa, 180-200c it depends. Entering 1c at an ROR of 10*C works pretty well as its going to decline, but maybe a little higher might work for you.

At least what I've seen, a lot of better espresso blends are not oily. That should mean the roaster stayed out of second crack. They used more development without exposing the beans to higher temperatures.

Charging lower and roasting 12-15 minutes is a way to approach this style of roasting. Some pro roasters call this "low and slow for spro".

(On the subject of air settings; you can use a lower air setting for most of the roast and increased air for chaff removal/heat reduction after the onset of 1C)

The air flow can be used like a gas pedal on an automobile; it can move the roast slower, faster, or moderate the speed (ROR).

[Adondo]

So far it looks like your roasting a Brazil for espresso on a solid drum Huky. Brazil's are usually low grown and not washed during processing. Let's look at "taking it easy".

One very easy way to "take it easy" is to charge at a lower temperature. Probably you've noticed the very first roast is going to run a bit differently than subsequent ones; especially on heavier machines.

Charging lower extends the drying phase, everything is going to catch up by the time you get to 150-160c the typical end to that phase. First crack is generally going to occur at @200c, between these two milestones is "the ramp to 1C".

If your following a "Rao profile" or declining ROR (rate of rise) the heat should be tapered down during the ramp phase. Another way to apply heat is to use a fixed gas setting for the entire roast except the RD (roast development phase) phase starting after 1C.

If your roasting 350g try charging at 150c at .50kPa at at the turning point (@1:30 later) raise the gas to 3kPa. 160c 2kPa, 170c 1kpa, 180-200c it depends. Entering 1c at an ROR of 10*C works pretty well as its going to decline, but maybe a little higher might work for you.

At least what I've seen, a lot of better espresso blends are not oily. That should mean the roaster stayed out of second crack. They used more development without exposing the beans to higher temperatures.

Charging lower and roasting 12-15 minutes is a way to approach this style of roasting. Some pro roasters call this "low and slow for spro".

(On the subject of air settings; you can use a lower air setting for most of the roast and increased air for chaff removal/heat reduction after the onset of 1C)

The air flow can be used like a gas pedal on an automobile; it can move the roast slower, faster, or moderate the speed (ROR).

Thanks, it makes sense. The thing is that I use a side burner to the liquified petroleum gas grill rather than mr.Li's stove so I'm not able (afaik) to change the pressure on it. I can also add that I have only the possibility to roast outside in our garage (no wind) bur cold, around 5 degrees in the winter. I dont know if its possible to attach a pressure regulator, but would that be of use? Furthermore I will be buying the variac for regulating the fan speed more precise.

[hankua]

In that case I'd try marking the knob with three or four settings, and you have off.