Hank I want to know more about the Anemometer please

[SusanJoM]

https://hankua.wordpress.com/2014/09/28/huky-500-measuring-air-flow/

I was just reading your article about using the anenometer and before I dash off and order one, is there anything else I need or need to know? 

Do you still recommend this as the way to calibrate a dimmer or a variac?

Will this work?
http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-EA-3010U-Anemometer/dp/B0002WZRKE

Susan

[kenneroast]

https://hankua.wordpress.com/2014/09/28/huky-500-measuring-air-flow/

I was just reading your article about using the anenometer and before I dash off and order one, is there anything else I need or need to know? 

Do you still recommend this as the way to calibrate a dimmer or a variac?

Will this work?
http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-EA-3010U-Anemometer/dp/B0002WZRKE

Susan

I would think this device would be great with a dimmer, but even better with the variac since people have reported that it does a better job at consistency. I'm curious to know if there's an option that would hook up to the Phidget. I see people in the Phidget community saying that there are anemometers compatible, but I haven't found one yet.

[SusanJoM]

I might have misunderstood, but I was interested in the anenometer as a way to calibrate the dimmer or the variac, not to be used in any ongoing fashion.

I think it would allow me to re-mark the Variac to indicate the % of actual air flow.  I  did the "match thing", but....all matches are not created equal :-((((  I want to have a better read on what the settings on my Variac translate to in terms of real air flow.

[kenneroast]

I might have misunderstood, but I was interested in the anenometer as a way to calibrate the dimmer or the variac, not to be used in any ongoing fashion.

I think it would allow me to re-mark the Variac to indicate the % of actual air flow.  I  did the "match thing", but....all matches are not created equal :-((((  I want to have a better read on what the settings on my Variac translate to in terms of real air flow.

From what the specs say and some reviews on Amazon, that device would help you accomplish this task. Other Amazon reviews about that particular device scares me from having any desire to try this exact device. Since it's on Prime though, returning it should be easy if any of the issues people report hold true.

Personally, I like what this guy is doing with the Phidget. He's measuring airflow with Artisan and graphing it.

https://www.facebook.com/marko.luther/posts/10203050689281865

Probably best to wait for hankua to respond, eh? Would be better to get input from the genius behind the anenometer setup.

[SusanJoM]

Cool link, thanks.

Well, maybe not???
Now I want one of those :-))))

[SusanJoM]

Personally, I like what this guy is doing with the Phidget. He's measuring airflow with Artisan and graphing it.

"this guy" is Marko Luther himself, the developer of Artisan :-))))

[kenneroast]

Personally, I like what this guy is doing with the Phidget. He's measuring airflow with Artisan and graphing it.

"this guy" is Marko Luther himself, the developer of Artisan :-))))

Shows how much I know about Artisan and coffee roasting. 

[SusanJoM]

Forget that.

I'm thinking that adding a Phidget 1126 (gas pressure reader http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1126 ) and a Phidget 1136 (air pressure reader http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1136) to the 1048 (temperature sensor  http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1048) which I already have, and coordinating both of themthem all through a 1018 (http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1018) air pressure would be recorded without my having to push buttons or move sliders??

Now that would be excellent.  I gave up trying to record gas and air because I am not coordinated enough to make the changes AND record that I have made them.

Auto recording would be very cool.

[kenneroast]

Forget that.

I'm thinking that adding a Phidget 1126 (gas pressure reader http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1126 ) and a Phidget 1136 (air pressure reader http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1136) to the 1048 (temperature sensor  http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1048) which I already have, and coordinating both of themthem all through a 1018 (http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1018) air pressure would be recorded without my having to push buttons or move sliders??

Now that would be excellent.  I gave up trying to record gas and air because I am not coordinated enough to make the changes AND record that I have made them.

Auto recording would be very cool.

I agree with this idea. I'd like to think I am coordinated enough to mess with controls on the computer and control the roast at the same time, but I'm afraid of inputting data wrong by accident and not knowing. Spending the extra money for peace of mind sounds ideal to me. I'm all about automation. Profile creation would be more in depth, and in theory, I would think reproducing a profile would be easier.

[Gregr]

If you enter wrong info or just miss a data point it's no problem- Marko built in an editor so you can very easily enter the data after the roast is done.

[SusanJoM]

What about this anemometer?

http://www.amazon.com/MS6252A-Anemometer-Electronic-Measuring-Backlight/dp/B00F3SCSZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425662330&sr=8-3&keywords=handheld+anemometer

My reading on the Phidget air pressure reader indicates that it might not like the environment I was considering.  It seems to need the air to be cleaner than the chaffy, damp exhaust path would provide.
So....back to a manual test of the air flow provided by the various settings on my Variac.

[kenneroast]

If you enter wrong info or just miss a data point it's no problem- Marko built in an editor so you can very easily enter the data after the roast is done.

You must roast like a pro to handle all that at one time. How does one go about getting some of your roasted coffee?

What about this anemometer?

http://www.amazon.com/MS6252A-Anemometer-Electronic-Measuring-Backlight/dp/B00F3SCSZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425662330&sr=8-3&keywords=handheld+anemometer

My reading on the Phidget air pressure reader indicates that it might not like the environment I was considering.  It seems to need the air to be cleaner than the chaffy, damp exhaust path would provide.
So....back to a manual test of the air flow provided by the various settings on my Variac.

Is there any place on the Huky where air is pulled through from the fan? Tracking pressure where chaff could effect sensors is something I never thought about. Is there any airflow from the bean hopper? Bummer.

[dynamiteid]

This is the inexpensive one I got. Very simple, but works fine to calibrate your dimmer/variac fan control. No need for an industrial one as I used it once for calibration, and never again.

http://www.amazon.com/COZYSWAN-Pocket-Digital-Anemometer-Thermometer/dp/B009QTGK3M/ref=pd_sim_hi_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0J77N2T229KWT2DAP3JE

[SusanJoM]

This is the inexpensive one I got. Very simple, but works fine to calibrate your dimmer/variac fan control. No need for an industrial one as I used it once for calibration, and never again.

http://www.amazon.com/COZYSWAN-Pocket-Digital-Anemometer-Thermometer/dp/B009QTGK3M/ref=pd_sim_hi_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0J77N2T229KWT2DAP3JE

I have an idea.
How about turning your Anemometer into a loaner?
I will pay for you to ship it to me and then anyone who wants it after me can pay for shipping it on???

[hankua]

Susan, mine is the cheap one from Ebay. There's really no need to buy anything expensive, just a way to measure the relative air flow and mark your device. Now you can measure positive or negative airflow; I chose to measure negative airflow by suspending the j-pipe from the ceiling sans roaster. The Huky roaster was not part of the experiment, although I have measured airflow on a roaster with a Dwyer Magnehelic gauge. Fan, exhaust bowl, j-pipe, and anemometer were the only pieces used. But you could measure positive air pressure with everything hooked up and set the gauge over the exhaust stub on the bowl.

Why is this a worthwhile thing to do? Communication, that's why. Although our actual air pressures are going to be different due to exhaust pipe configuration, at least we can state our airflow setting in a meaningful way for others to copy.

Why try and re-invent the wheel? If Greg or Susan come up with a killer profile, the membership might want to try it out. Artisan charts are fantastic, but we need to know when/where to turn the gas/air knobs.

So if we all have a 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% air setting or something relatively close; its a whole lot easier to figure out. The other piece to the air is marking the stock gas gauge, unless you've upgraded like Susan.