Hank I want to know more about the Anemometer please

[Slayton]

Ok. So there are ways to log this data automatically via phidgets and such.  It seems like such the better way to go.  I have so much to learn and in so many directions.

[Gregr]

lol... ain't that the truth for all of us.
I'll pm you and we can work on getting photos posted.
To be honest, connecting an anenmometer to Artisan held little interest for me but after re-reading this thread and what Hank said I see the light:

Why is this a worthwhile thing to do? Communication, that's why. Although our actual air pressures are going to be different due to exhaust pipe configuration, at least we can state our airflow setting in a meaningful way for others to copy.
Why try and re-invent the wheel? If Greg or Susan come up with a killer profile, the membership might want to try it out. Artisan charts are fantastic, but we need to know when/where to turn the gas/air knobs.
So if we all have a 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% air setting or something relatively close; its a whole lot easier to figure out. The other piece to the air is marking the stock gas gauge, unless you've upgraded like Susan.

I don't have a Phidget but if I can find my old anemometer I can include windspeed, which would be more meaningful than "50% on my dimmer"...

[SusanJoM]

My apologies for derailing this thread.  I still feel like I'm floundering and could use some help.

No apologies necessary;  the questions are the challenges that make this endeavor interesting.  We are all figuring it out together.
Your question inspired me to figure out something I knew I wanted to be able to do but had been too lazy to figure out.  I had a great day yesterday because you asked that question :-))) 

[SusanJoM]

There are a few updates to my plan for the anemometer.

According to Marko, the 1048 (heat sensor) needs to be connected directly to the laptop, rather than routed through another Phidget.

And according to Brian Burley at Phidget, the 1011 might work. (http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=1011) rather than a 1018

I have contacted Marko to ask him about that, as it would  reduce the cost of the parts by $30. which is good.

I will make a new schematic....later :-))

[Gregr]

Shocker- I found the anemometer- battery long dead but it uses the same ones as my bean scale so I was able to bring it to life. I removed the tryer and held the anemometer as flush as I could up against the opening and took some crude readings. With the fan at 100% it was about 2.8mph, on down to roughly 1.0mph with the dimmer at it's lowest setting (fan still turns). For what it's worth.

[Gregr]

If I'm understanding you correctly you mean the opening in the vented bowl- but I can't do that without removing the duct that I've got clamped on and it tears pretty easily. I just measured at the end of the duct right where it meets the fan opening in my range hood. At full power it's 6mph and at the lowest setting it's about 2mph. The resolution is only mph or kph with the old Brunton Sherpa I'm using so not too good.

[SusanJoM]

If I'm understanding you correctly you mean the opening in the vented bowl- but I can't do that without removing the duct that I've got clamped on and it tears pretty easily. I just measured at the end of the duct right where it meets the fan opening in my range hood. At full power it's 6mph and at the lowest setting it's about 2mph. The resolution is only mph or kph with the old Brunton Sherpa I'm using so not too good.

Actually I was thinking on top of the sieve under the exhaust tube, but I deleted that post because that can't be enough different from what is happening at the trier to matter.... 

What I'm curious about now is how mph relates to kPa, but...that's another rabbit hole altogether...

[hankua]

I looked up the conversion, 1kpa = 4 inch wc. The SF75 at Bold Bean is using a Dwyer Magnehelic 0-1.0 wc with double inputs. My Mini500 in the exhaust plenum worked with a 0-0.5 wc Dwyer Magnehelic.

Best location for sensor is before the damper, closer to the drum. The SF75 has the inputs after the damper before the fan. When you open the damper the gauge drops, opposite of what's happening inside the drum. At least that's what I'm thinking.

[SusanJoM]

Here?

[hankua]

I think it needs to go in an area where the pitot would be parallel with pipe.

[SusanJoM]

So, Hank, check out this post by Dregs at H-B.  He is a few steps ahead of me and that is perfect :-)))  I love having someone's footsteps to follow in !!!

http://www.home-barista.com/home-roasting/pressure-gauge-for-tj-067-t34955.html#p396556

[kenneroast]

Most of my posts on this thread were prior to having my Huky delivered and setup. Now that I've seen it in the flesh and had a chance to play with the fan, I don't see any reason not to use a Phidget board / TC4 with an air pressure device. I think the biggest factor is deciding where to mount the airflow device. From what I've seen, my vote would also be as close to the exhaust port of the Huky's roasting chamber.  In theory, I'd like to believe that having a measurement of how much air is being pulled from/through the drum would have the most accurate reading.

Another concern that I have now is that when the J pipe connected to the funnel on the exhaust fan , it doesn't seal completely. Even the wood handle on the J pipe doesn't seal completely. Have any of you guys taken any steps to seal the gap to ensure that the vacuum is tight? A lot of people report success with the Huky being bare bones like Mr. Li intends for it to be used, but I have this urge inside to close up any gaps in the exhaust system before the fan to make sure airflow responds when I alter it with the variac.

Aside from the cyclone mod, I'd like to hear about anyone else's ideas on the standard exhaust system. The cyclone mod is the only thing I've stumbled across in my research.

[SusanJoM]

I could have this all wrong, but I don't think airtightness is an issue.
I suspect the reason my anemometer readings and Aarons  are so different is that my system is not airtight.

I just positioned the anemometer where the arrow is on the picture and took readings at each Variac setting.

But it doesn't matter because it will be equally un-airtight at every setting of the Variac, so all I am really wanting to know is what % of the full draw is being exerted at each setting.

[kenneroast]

I could have this all wrong, but I don't think airtightness is an issue.
I suspect the reason my anemometer readings and Aarons  are so different is that my system is not airtight.

I just positioned the anemometer where the arrow is on the picture and took readings at each Variac setting.

But it doesn't matter because it will be equally un-airtight at every setting of the Variac, so all I am really wanting to know is what % of the full draw is being exerted at each setting.

Interesting. Something just bugs me about taking readings with an anemometer at this location. I'd think the fan will suck air from anywhere possible, including loose joints within the Huky exhaust. I think I'm just going to have to swallow whatever logic my brain is attempting to force feed me and trust you on this one.

Also, I'm pretty sure I'll be following pursuit right behind you on getting the air pressure gauge setup. I like how Marko provided solutions for avoiding debris and keeping the temperature low enough for the sensor. I haven't even started roasted yet and I'm already having a hard time swallowing the idea of having to adjust the variac, PLUS having to modify events in Artisan. Since I can already picture miscommunication between my girlfriend and I using this roaster, it would be really convenient to have all the important data to just feed in without having requiring human input.

Thank you all for the feedback, and thank you Susan for documenting your roadmap. Your research is a great deal of help with my plans moving forward.

[SusanJoM]

I think I'm just going to have to swallow whatever logic my brain is attempting to force feed me and trust you on this one.

This would be a huge mistake

I am speculating and testing and reporting, but have NO caveats.....