500T Order List and a Few Questions

[Todd]

Hey guys!

After a fair share of lurking, here is the setup I have decided on based on an attempt at averaging the community's setups.

For clarification, I plan to connect the Huky to a Phidget 1048 so that I can track my roasts on Artisan. To my understanding, this requires that ALL probes are digital and not analog. Let me know if the following setup aligns with this goal.

I am confused about if I need the Center 30X thermometer if I plan to use a Phidget, and if I do, which one. Where does this sit on the machine? To my understanding, there's BT, ET, and MET probes on the faceplate, and the following list assumes BT and ET (stock), and extra MET (optional). BT is supposedly already digital, so you only have to specify digital ET and MET. This leaves the mysterious "Center 30X thermometer." Do I remove this from the list if I plan to use a Phidget?

Additionally, is there a difference when people refer to exhaust hood vs exhaust bowl or are they synonymous?

Similarly, what's the difference between thermocouple, thermometer, and probe?

Edit: the following list has been updated to reflect my final purchase list, thanks to feedback from members Rodraguierre, NightFlight, and JerryB.

Huky 500T 72 RPM solid drum with quick connect - $1180 
   - Exchange ET analog thermometer for digital probe
Center 30X thermometer - $112 Not needed with Phidget setup
IR stove (propane) - $99
Exhaust hood - $49
Extra MET probe - $18
Extra Tray - $16
Extra fan - $48
Extra Funnel - $13
USB cable  - $24 Included with Phidget
Freight charge - $186
Total - $1609

Thanks for the help!

[rodraguirre]

First of all, welcome!

let me try to objectively answer, switching the order of your questions:

Similarly, what's the difference between thermocouple, thermometer, and probe?

Thermocouples = probes (they're your temperature sensors)
Thermometer is a device that display the temperature. The center 30x are digital thermometers that need probes (thermocouples) connected to it to display temps.

I am confused about if I need the Center 30X thermometer if I plan to use a Phidget, and if I do, which one. Where does this sit on the machine?

If you plan to use a phidget, you don't need a center 30x. The phidget is a circuit board that has 4 inputs for you to wire the probes to it. It then sends the signal to the Computer through USB. It doesn't sit anywhere on the machine. Mine is screwed to my workbench

To my understanding, there's BT, ET, and MET probes on the faceplate, and the following list assumes BT and ET (stock), and extra MET (optional). BT is supposedly already digital, so you  only have to specify digital ET and MET.

Right. Actually MET always comes digital, so it you actually only need to specify digital ET.

Additionally, is there a difference when people refer to exhaust hood vs exhaust bowl or are they synonymous?

They're the same

[Todd]

Great! Thanks for the quick and thorough response, Rodraguerre. Here's my updated list with the removed Center 30X probe, and USB cable (since it comes with the Phidget, thanks NightFlight).

The list below now accounts for all digital BT, ET, and MET. You mentioned that there are four inputs on the Phidget. What's the fourth one? Is it for an optional and unused probe in this setup, or is it for power or something like that?

If this is all looking good, I can reach out to Mr. Li tonight!

Huky 500T 72 RPM solid drum with quick connect - $1180 
   - Exchange ET analog thermometer for digital probe
Center 30X thermometer - $112 Not needed with Phidget setup
IR stove (propane) - $99
Exhaust hood - $49
Extra MET probe - $18
Extra Tray - $16
Extra fan - $48
Extra Funnel - $13
USB cable  - $24 Included with Phidget
Freight charge - $186
Total - $1609

[NightFlight]

The USB cable will come with the Phidget also.

[Todd]

Thanks for the tip, NightFlight. I've removed the USB cable from the list along with the Center 30X probe.

My buddy JerryB just informed me that the Phidget has the capacity to attach 4 thermocouples despite this particular Huky setup only having 3 (BT, ET, and optional MET), so an option would be to have the 4th probe monitor room temperature or something like that, but it isn't necessary. I think I'm ready to make the jump then. Thanks for your help, guys!

I'll edit my other posts to include this information for anyone with the same questions in the future.

Here's the final list. Time to draft up an email to Mr. Li!

Huky 500T 72 RPM solid drum with quick connect - $1180 
   - Exchange ET analog thermometer for digital probe
Center 30X thermometer - $112 Not needed with Phidget setup
IR stove (propane) - $99
Exhaust hood - $49
Extra MET probe - $18
Extra Tray - $16
Extra fan - $48
Extra Funnel - $13
USB cable  - $24 Included with Phidget
Freight charge - $186
Total - $1609

[JerryB]

Welcome Todd,
I'm glad to see someone in my area that is getting a Huky.
Your list looks good to me and I compared it to mine and it's the same order going to Mr Li. Just email him the list with prices and he will confirm so you can pay on PayPal. I tried to use a wire transfer through the bank but I didn't have an address for Mr Li. After I got the Huky, I have an address for him. I don't know why or if anyone has tried to use it for the wire transfer or not. Good luck and you may want to start putting together other useful items that you will want when it shows up.

Cheers,
Jery

[SusanJoM]

Just in case you forget it or lose it, Mr. Li's contact information is always available here:
https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php/topic,876.msg9600/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=6

[Landis]

Todd, Did you receive your Huky yet? I am following your endeavor, as the options you have chosen are pretty much identical to what I am looking for. Please leave some post purchase feedback, pictures, and if everything you purchased is still your ideal system/learned anything more.

Thanks.

[Todd]

Hey Landis!

I was planning on updating this thread when the roaster arrived so that others could get a feel for how long the delivery process took. The roaster is still on its way.

I followed up with Mr. Li after not having received it after the 18-21 day estimated delivery window and seeing that other members of the forum ordered after me but had already received theirs. He responded promptly to let me know that some items had to be back ordered, so there was a delay, but that it would be shipping the next day. It could have something to do with the custom requests that I made, but I didn't look too deeply into it.

Sure enough, I got shipping confirmation the next day with a tracking code. It left Taipei 1-2 days ago, and just arrived in San Francisco today. I live in Utah. I'll keep you posted.

[Landis]

Sounds good, Todd! I am excited for you!!

[Todd]

The roaster arrived shortly after shipping on Monday (~4 days), which was about 35 days after purchase confirmation from Mr. Li. This seems longer than usual, though, since I supposedly had some back ordered parts. I'm serial number 984!

I didn't take many pictures, since other members have done a great job documenting the unboxing process. Mine is identical. The packaging is great and everything was protected very well. Assembly was relatively straight forward. There are a few parts that require guessing, like lube for the door's hinges, zip ties to attach the fans to fan stands, and some spare screws and bolts that I think are included for convenience.

I went to Home Depot yesterday to pick up a few items to assemble a ventilation duct system since I'm going to attempt to roast indoors but vent the smoke outside through a window. I'll let you know how that goes.

I also am currently figuring out the thermocouple/probe connectors. They are K-type connectors which look like yellow plugs, and they don't fit into my Phidget, so I believe I have to disassemble the connectors to expose the bare wire, and then plug those into the Phidget so that I can log my roasts. I think Susan has a post around here that details the process. (EDIT: Links in the two posts below)

I did plug in the roaster and the fans to make sure they worked, though, and everything is spinning! The Variac seems to work well for adjusting fan power.

[Seion]

Welcome!

Phidget and Connector information:
https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=34

All things Phidget pdf

[Todd]

Yes, that's exactly it! Thanks, Seion.

There's also this helpful thread that shows the step about baring more wire + kenneroast's nifty approach.

https://www.hukyforum.com/index.php?topic=205.0

[Todd]

I've completed three roasts and wanted to give you guys an update, including my shopping list, the price I paid, and my thoughts. For what it's worth, the roaster, all of the parts listed below, and 10 lbs. of beans from Happy Mug has costed about $2,200.

The following list is parts that I purchased for my ghetto rig indoor exhaust system. It actually works quite well, with the majority of the smoke being sucked outside, and only a small amount leaking from the exhaust fan/tray inside. It makes my basement smell like popcorn, or however you'd describe the roast smell, but I leave a few windows open for an hour or two afterward and it doesn't seem like it lingers too much or will cause smoke damage--at least for now.

$10.58 - 3"x8' semi-rigid aluminum duct (Home Depot)
$7.4 - 4" aluminum dryer hood/flap (plugs into plexiglass for the smoke to escape, but the flap keeps bugs/nature out, Home Depot)
$1.25 - 3" metal clamp (unnecessary, but I suppose it's nice if you want extra clamping power, Home Depot)
$7.88 - foil tape (to connect and seal the duct to the coupler, Home Depot)
$5.85 - 4x3 round reducer (to connect the 4" exhaust hood/flap to the duct, Home Depot)
$14.78 - 12" Tri-dolly for exhaust bowl (to elevate the exhaust bowl from the table so that the duct will fit, also makes the bowl easy to move, Amazon)
$27.54 - Clear acrylic sheet (to replace your window screen, Home Depot)
$14.76 - Dewalt 4" hole saw (for cutting a perfect hole into plexiglass, attaches to drill, Amazon)
$12.36 - Dewalt 7/16" shank quick change mandrel (attachment necessary to attach hole saw to drill, Amazon)
$12.99 - Stanley metal mill file 4-piece set (to smooth plexiglass edges and make hole slightly bigger for exhaust hood/flap to fit, Amazon)
$8.56 - 2.5" to 3" coupler (rubbery car intake part to connect the duct to the exhaust bowl, O'reilly Auto Parts)

The general idea and process is as follows, starting from the window and ending at the exhaust bowl (picture attached):

1. Cut a piece of plexiglass the same size as a window screen. You'll have to measure your window screen and buy plexiglass that's big enough. To cut plexiglass, you score it with a plexiglass cutter or the back end of a box cutter blade (not sharpened), then use leverage to snap the piece off, so to make your job easier, pick a piece of plexiglass that has enough excess material to snap easily. If there's only an inch or so to snap, there won't be much leverage to break the plexiglass and the edge will be jagged.

2. Cut a hole in the plexiglass using a hole saw for the exhaust hood/flap.

3. Drill holes into plexiglass corners using a drill bit to loop rope, string, or bakers twine through to make handles. Alternatively, you can attach actual handles or sticky hooks or something. This is to make inserting/pulling the finished product into the window easier.

4. Insert exhaust hood/flap into hole, may require some filing to make the hole just big enough.

5. Connect reducer to exhaust hood/flap.

6. Connect duct to reducer.

7. Connect the other end of the duct to the coupler. This will require that you cut & man-handle the duct to fit into the coupler. I used foil tape to tape the frayed edges to the inside of the coupler for a nice inner seal so that chaff wouldn't build up in crevices. Then I used foil tape to also secure the outside. The coupler comes with clamps for each side for even more grip.

8. Connect and clamp the coupler to the exhaust bowl. The nice thing about using the coupler and not taping the duct directly to the bowl is being able to easily remove the duct to vacuum later. There is a small amount of chaff that falls into the duct.

9. Using a drill bit, drill holes into the metal dolly to ziptie the exhaust bowl to the dolly.

Other things that I purchased that you can add to your shopping list:
$37 - Shop-Vac, 1 gallon (model 2021000, perfect size for sucking up chaff after each roast, plus dead spiders, easy to carry, Amazon)
$54.56 - Propane tank, 1 gallon (4.25 lbs., I wanted a smaller tank for ease of carrying, since I disconnect my propane and store it outside when not in use, and to take up less space. Anything under the standard 20 lbs. tanks were hard to find, though, so I bought mine on Amazon.)
$3.8 - Propane refill (Buying a brand new propane tank that isn't prefilled with propane comes filled with air, so you have to get it purged prior to its first filling. I informed the propane attendant, but I'm not sure if he did it right. He unscrewed the side of the valve using a screwdriver and waited for the air to come out, but an article I read about purging propane tanks detailed a more complicated process. I'm using the tank anyway and it seems to work fine.)
$28.88 - Carbon monoxide detector (you know, for not dying and what not)
$39.77 - Fire extinguisher (Kidde 21005779 Pro 210, Amazon)
$6.17 - Ove gloves (you won't need this with the T configuration, the parts you touch aren't that hot)

Still plenty to learn, but so far so good, and having a lot of fun.

One thing I'm struggling with right now is matching my stock gas pressure gauge to other members' roasting instructions. When I go below 2 kPa, my flame goes out, so I have to use more gas and follow directions based on thermocouple temperatures instead. This mismatch has caused my roasts to go for too long. I've ordered a Dwyer (0-3.75 kPa) LPG Gage for $41 from a site called Transcat (out of stock on Amazon) hoping that this may be more accurate, but it's been 5 days and they still haven't shipped the part. It could be my gas flow, but I am not sure how to determine.

[edtbjon]

...
One thing I'm struggling with right now is matching my stock gas pressure gauge to other members' roasting instructions. When I go below 2 kPa, my flame goes out, so I have to use more gas and follow directions based on thermocouple temperatures instead. This mismatch has caused my roasts to go for too long. I've ordered a Dwyer (0-3.75 kPa) LPG Gage for $41 from a site called Transcat (out of stock on Amazon) hoping that this may be more accurate, but it's been 5 days and they still haven't shipped the part. It could be my gas flow, but I am not sure how to determine.

I love the idea of a custom made window glass for venting out the exhausts. It's just a pity that I just recently got new double glass insulation windows fitted.
I recon that you can adjust the gague with the bottom adjustment screw on the front plate. To get the protection glass (plastic) off, just run a knife along the edge and the protection will eventually loosen without breaking. You then twist it off clockwise.
FYI, my flame goes out at say 0.25 kPa and flickers a bit up to say 0.5 kPa. Also, if you're using the stock propane regulator to take down the gas tank pressure, your max pressure should be around 4-5 kPa.
My gague was shot recently, which made the think about my roasting procedures. I had a habit of starting with a specific charge temp with the burner completely off, turning the burner on after 60 seconds. The "easiest" way to get the burner setting I intended was to pre-set it (at say 4 kPa) and then turn the burner off with the big black turn button and turn it back on after that minute. Now, that puts a big "puff" to the gas gague. An expensive but good replacement gague and I have overhauled my routines.