My mobile Roasting Cart **New Exhaust Design 3-27-17**

[Crzyworm623]

I just introduced myself over in the Introduction section, so I'll use this thread to expand on my purchase and my cart build in hopes to help the next guy.  I have everyone on here to thank for the final results as I took a little bit from everyone.

February 9th, 2016
My HUKY 500 T order. 
--I ordered two full orders at once, which MR. LI provided a small discount on the 500T normally 1180.
-- I was real nervous sending $3400.00 to some PayPal account. So many unknowns,  but so far I am glad I did.

500T perforated drum 48 rpm----1144 USD with quick connect.
Propane ir stove-------------------------99 USD
Exhaust hood-----------------------------49 USD
Extra probe for MET--------------------16 USD
BT & ET probe come with Huky-------0
Extra sieve/tray---------------------------16 USD
Extra fan-----------------------------------48 USD
Extra funnel-------------------------------14 USD
Extra motor set 72rpm------------------78 USD
Solid drum----------------------------------98 USD
Shipping-----------------------------------186 USD

I suggest everyone order everything listed above, other than maybe the extra motor set and the extra drum.  I felt for the extra $200.00 it was worth ordering the extra motor set along with the Solid Drum now, than to decide later on I wanted it, and adding the extra shipping expense.

March 1, 2016
-- I got an email from MR. LI saying my first roaster shipped

March 4, 2016
-- USPS called saying I had a large package waiting for me.  Roaster arrived.

I immediately unboxed it.  Mr. Li packaged it very nicely, I'm not sure how he even got it all in there the way he did. 



Everything was boxed, and doubled boxed, some even triple boxed.







I was impressed, came with a nice bag of tools, made putting the few parts together very easy

[Crzyworm623]

Now onto my build

Part 1: Parts

I will try to post all links and prices for everything I used.  I ordered everything before the roaster arrived, and did I ever get lucky with how things worked out.  Things are listed in no particular order, and bought from the respective sites out of convenience.


I purchased this from Walmart The Main Cart
If you are a Sams club member you can get it a few $$ cheaper.  Walmart had free shipping so it basically ended up being the same price, unless you can pick up in store.


Other Items purchased from Walmart.com
Rubber Grommets

2" Computer Desk Stainless Grommet

2" Computer Desk Grommet -Gray Platic

Beaker

2" Hole Saw

4" Vent Hood

Mason Jars

Also from Walmart a 2$ wooden stir Paddle (found in store)

Items Purchased from HomeDepot.com
3/4 male terminal

1 gang weatherproof box 3/4"

3 Gange Weatherproof box

Strain Relief Cord Connector

co2/explosive gas dector

Conduit Body

T Conduit Body

3/4 PVC Conduit

3/4 PVC Elbow x a few

From Amazon.com
OVE GLOVE

LED Desk Lamp
** I got this on sale for about 24.99, it has multiple lighting colors (COOL, WHITE, WARM) along with a dimmer.  It is really nice, solid, with metal frame.  If I had to buy one again I would look for one that also rotates, so the light can be shined left and right.

2.5 to 3" Silicon Reducer 45 degree bend

4" Hose Clamps

3" Hose Clamps

Quick connect dryer vent

3" Dryer Duct

3 to 4" duct reducer

thread paste
** Tried using a quick connect on the propane stove, didn't have enough parts, will work on that in future

3x Outlets

Gray wall plate

Appliance extension Cord

3 combo switch

3 gang wall plate

Variac

Scott Rao Coffee Companion

1 1/4 hole saw

14/2 wire

Other Misc Parts
1/4 " drive extension
Wire Nuts
Velcro
Double Sided Tape
Phidget
Enclosure
Leak Test Liquid
Vacuum
Flanges
1.5 " PVC
cheapest hole saw kit, good enough for 4 holes
brass elbow
1x4 x 14'
1x8 x 14'
Wood Glue, Nail Gun, Stain

[Crzyworm623]

Part 2: The build

I didn't go crazy with taking pictures during the build, because I honestly had no idea where it was going. 

First thing I did was build the cart: The Seville Cart from Walmart arrived in about 2 days, It is not assembled at all, and the box has to be around 100lbs.  It took a good hour plus to assemble.  Everything was nicely labeled, but it is a lot of screws and a lot of pieces for a small cart.

The left side is a cabinet comes with 1 height adjustable shelf. (SEE WALMART PICTURES)

***My build cart almost ended right here, a 20lb propane tank will not fit in the cabinet side with the door on.  Take the door off and it slides in with about a 1/64" room to spare.  The door comes on and off easily with 6 small screws.  I don't think I'll be burning through propane so I don't see this being a real issue.

Next step was to create the electrical supply, I wanted to have 6 Outlets.
-Motor
-Exhaust Fan
-Cooling Fan
-Co2 / Explosive Gas detector
-Lamp
-Computer

I'm in no way an electrician, or have really any experience with this type of thing, but after about 2 hours of assembling this, it all worked.  I am not going to go into detail how I wired anything, because I have no business teaching how to do it.  I used the appliance 14 ga extension cord, that I cut the receiving plug off.  The 3 combo switch is nice as it only needs one hot run to it.  The outlets were wired so that the top of the duplex is switched, and the bottom ones are always hot.

This allows for the 2 fans/Variac and motor to be switched on and off with the switch, while keeping my lamp, detector, and computer powered.






**cracked the wall plate, whoops, but you don't see it so IDC

My next step was to mount it on the shelf in the cabinet, with the switch mounted to the left side.
This was accomplished by using a cutting wheel on my dremel and cutting out a box big enough to slide the switch into.  The switch needs to be mounted on the outside, so I had to remove the switch from the box, wire it through the cut out, push it all back in trying to line it up with not much working room. 




Now going to the back of the cart.  I used the 2" Hole saw and cut out a hole (this saw is not made for metal, I suggest buying a 2nd one that is, or you can struggle with it like I did.  After the hole is drilled insert a 2" plastic desk grommet

While back there I drilled a 1.25 hole that lined up with the height of the propane tank / regulator, inserting a rubber grommet to protect the propane hose.



After arranging the roaster pretty much dead center of the table, I had the exhaust fan and cooling fan placed where they needed to be.  The wire from the exhaust fan just drops over the back and into the 2" grommet where the main power was run.  The lamp plug also runs into that hole (the wire is run along the top and with a few pieces of duct tape is taped out of site)

This was the tricky part, knowing where I wanted to drill the next holes.  I again drilled a 2" hole using the hole saw.  This hole is for the thermocoupler wires and the the cooling fan.  They just drop right into the left side of the cart, easily plugged in.  I used the metal one here for a nicer look.  Took a good few whacks with a rubber mallet to seat it.



After dropping the thermocoupler wires in, I disconnected the attached plugs, pulled a bit more wire out and wired it to the phidget.  I used some velcro to attach the phidget to the underside of the table top.

I also drilled a 1 1/4" hole in the divider between the drawers and the cabinet.  Using a rubber grommet to protect the wires.  I use this hole to run the USB from the phidget and the computer power, to the top drawer, which is used as a shelf / storage for my laptop. 





The variac, this proved a bit more challenging.  I really didn't want it on the counter.  For 1, there was too many wires, and 2 its out of place compared to the rest of things.

The knob should easily come off with 2 set screws.  The one set screw on mine, the slot for a screw driver was broken so that proved a bit of a challenge to get it to loosen.

Im sure there is a better way to do this, but I had to extend the shaft that connects the knob.  A 1/4" ratchet extension (the side that a socket attaches to) fit perfectly into the knob.  Tighten the set screw and its secure.  The other side almost fit onto the shaft, with a little dremmel work, I was able to make it slip onto the shaft. 



Im not sure what size drill bit I used, but It was just slightly larger than the diameter of the extension.

I used a small metal plate I had around to raise the variac up, just enough so that the top of the new "shaft" made the knob sit just above the table.

Almost forgot, I used a heat gun very briefly on the dial, using a small flat head, followed by a plastic pry, the dial label came up.  That was then held down to the table with double sided tape, and the knob attached.


Getting pretty cramped on the shelf

That's pretty much it, here are pictures of the final build.  Plenty of drawer space, and everything is neatly organized.  For the mean time, this is going to be stored in my kitchen, and with this, I don't mind looking at it, nor does it look out of place.




** Notice the Co2 and explosive gas detector.  It detects propane and Co2 it is a dual unit.  It can be stored in the cart and stays powered on with battery.  It can easily be moved onto the top.  I will check regularly for leaks with soapy water, but I suggest getting one of these, can never be too safe.








Had a couple of hooks laying around, they used the carts screws to secure, keeps the power out of the way while rolling








Thanks for checking out my build, any questions I'll be glad to answer.  Now I just need to roast my first batch. I wasn't expecting it to come so soon, so I never ordered any

[Crzyworm623]

Finally got a chance to finish up my exhaust today.  I'm pretty happy with it.  Id like to maybe do hard pipe, but for now this works.

 I really wanted to build an insert for a window, but my windows are not the type that slide up and down.  That would have made things a whole lot easier.  I decided the next best option was to make an insert for my sliding glass door.  (I remembered a long time ago a friend had one to add a pet door, which gave me the idea)

Step one: Measure 20 times, cut just as many times until it actually fits.

I used 1x8 and 1x4 #2 pine as its the cheapest option at my local lumber supply











4" Hole saw for the exhaust, plus had to sand out the hole to actually fit the exhaust duct.

Insulated it. Had some 2" and 1" rigid insulation from a past job. Filled the inside. 



Stained using left over stain from my house


Cut the Exhaust Duct to the proper length, the white piece is a quick connect for 4" dryer ducting



All assembled, added some foam insulation tape to both sides, to try and get a good air tight seal (Small gap, #2 pine is not the best as the boards are often warped)


Wanted to have the propane tank outside.  Decided to use 1.5" pvc which is just big enough to run the hose and quick connect through.  Found those Slip Flanges on amazon, I didn't realize how big they were, nothing in my local store. 
Used a 2.5" hole saw to cut the required size hole.


This is the outside, before attaching the quick connect, I drilled out a #9 rubber stopper.  This allows me to run the line into the house and seal the remainder of the hole.


completed door insert


Used a 3 to 2.5" silicon 45 Elbow, some 3" semi rigid ducting, a 4" adjustable 90 degree, and a 3 to 4" reducer, along with the 4" quick connect...

The silicon is nice because it stays on the exhaust without a clamp.  I can disconnect the ducting from the door insert from the white quick connect, and slide off the silicon adapter for easy storage.

I also swapped out the stock barb, and added a 90 degree elbow.  I needed a washer to keep things snug, new male hose barb.





And I'm ready to roast.

**************
Updated Exhaust March 27, 2017
**************
New exhaust design that should eliminate any turbulence and flow restrictions created by the flex pipe not being fully flexed and often sagged.  2nd problem was wind was causing quite a bit of back pressure and prevented the dryer flap from opening freely.  3rd concern, after a small exhaust bowl fire I was concerned about the build up in the flex pipe that couldn't be cleaned.

 The setup is now mainly 2.5" only up sizing to 3" as it exits vs going to 3" then 4".  By the time the exhaust exited there was almost no pressure which would allow the wind to blow back in. The new design allows for a smooth restriction-free flow, and the vent cap is designed for high winds to prevent down drafts. Only downside I see is now I'm pretty locked into the roaster location, where as with flex I had some room for adjustments.  This would make for a nice permanent setup if you have the room. 

Parts:
Selkirk 3'' RV High Wind Top - 103802
Selkirk Metalbestos 3RV-DH 3-Inch RV Draft Hood Connector
Wall Support Bracket 3 in. Selkirk 243520
Selkirk 90 Degree Elbow 3 in. 103230
Selkirk Round Type B Gas Vent 3 in. 187703
3.0" to 2.5" inch Silicone Coupler Straight Reducer
45-Deg Elbow Coupler, ID 2.5"
Upgr8 Universal Outside Diameter Polished Aluminum Pipe (2.5"(63MM), 90 Degree)

Silcon, Clamps, extra silicon coupler I cut up to fill the gap between the 3" piping and the 4" hole I had cut previously

[Johnny4lsu]

You killed it!!! Phenomenal job

[Cammie]

Very nice...it looks great.

[brew]

That is slick!

[Crzyworm623]

So im starting to reconsider my propane placement.  I know per state code and law, that propane tanks should not be stored in the house.  I went the extra step with a gas detector, but its still making me nervous.  I've never once had a tank leak, but i've also never stored them the house.  Usually outside in my shed or a rubbermaid deck box, or under the grill.

I really dont want to be connecting and disconnecting the hose / regulator often, as that is only going to create leaks.  Its also a pain to remove the tank, being the door needs to come off. 

I suppose I can go a quick connect option and just move the tank inside when I roast, and back out when finish.  Having it inside while im around doesn't worry me.  Having a leak when i'm out of the home does, a gas detector going off with no one home to hear it, may end up being too late and spark an explosion.

Thoughts?

[SusanJoM]

If you are going to move the gas to outside, I suggest you upgrade that gas line to a better one and add a shut off right at the stove. 

[Daave]

I think I'm going to copy your idea with the Variac. I hate having that take up so much room on my bench, and this seems like a great solution.

[Crzyworm623]

If you are going to move the gas to outside, I suggest you upgrade that gas line to a better one and add a shut off right at the stove.

Do you know what parts you used.
I had bought a quick connect. But it didn't thread on completely after removing the barb end off the stove and the flow was backwards.

[SusanJoM]

Sorry, someone did this for me so I can't give you a parts list.
I will see if I can find out, though.

[Huky956]

Wow.. that set up is amazing.

[Crzyworm623]

Sorry, someone did this for me so I can't give you a parts list.
I will see if I can find out, though.

Thanks, but Don't trouble yourself. After doing some looking at parts  I think Ive figured out what I'm going to do.

[JerryB]

This is an amazing job!! Very clean!

Happy Roasting!
Jerry